Dalat and the Central Highlands: the Vietnam that looks like France and nobody visits

At 1,500 metres altitude in central-south Vietnam, with pines, French chalets, lakes, and 15-22 ºC temperatures year-round, Dalat is an anomaly: when Saigon hits 35 ºC and stifling humidity, here you wear a light jacket. The French founded it in 1907 as a colonial hill station — the “little Paris” they escaped to from the tropical heat. Today it’s the capital of Vietnamese coffee, local honeymoon destination, and gateway to the Central Highlands (Tay Nguyen) — Vietnam’s least visited and most ethnically diverse region.

Why Dalat exists

Alexandre Yersin (Swiss doctor, Pasteur’s disciple) discovered the Langbiang plateau in 1893. He reported to the governor-general of Indochina that the climate was “European,” the landscape “alpine.” France decided to found a hill station for colonial officials and military.

1907-1954: Dalat is built as French enclave — art déco villas, palaces, a colonial hotel (Dalat Palace, 1922), church, botanical gardens. Emperor Bao Dai had three summer palaces here.

1975-2000: relative abandonment. Since 2000: rediscovery via Vietnamese domestic tourism.

• 🏔Altitude 1,500 m
• 🌡Temperature 15-22 ºC year-round
• 🇫🇷Founded 1907 (French)
• ☕Coffee VN production capital

What to see in Dalat city

Xuan Huong Lake: central lake, 7 km walkable perimeter. The city organises itself around it.

Dalat Railway Station (1932): colonial art déco, one of Southeast Asia’s loveliest stations. Tourist train 7 km to Trai Mat (village) — 30 min each way, crosses hilly landscape.

Bao Dai Palace III: summer palace of Vietnam’s last emperor. Original 1930s-40s furniture, imperial family photos. 40,000 VND.

Crazy House (Hang Nga Guesthouse): surrealist architecture by Dang Viet Nga — daughter of a former Vietnamese president, trained in Moscow. Concrete trees, tunnels, organic rooms. Divisive but unique. 60,000 VND.

Linh Phuoc Pagoda (Trai Mat, 8 km): pagoda covered in glass and broken ceramic mosaics — 12 billion pieces per the abbot. Aesthetically brutal, impressive.

The coffee plantations

The Central Highlands produce 90% of Vietnamese coffee, and Vietnam is the world’s 2nd producer after Brazil — but 1st in robusta (60% of global robusta).

Plantation tours (Dalat):

• K’Ho Coffee Farm: K’Ho minority cooperative, sustainable arabica. 3h tour, tasting, 350,000 VND.
• Ma Rừng Lữ Quán: boutique coffee + rural lodging.
• La Viet Coffee: urban processor, bean-to-cup explained.

The ethnic minorities: Tay Nguyen

The Highlands host over 30 ethnic groups: Ede, Bahnar, Jarai, K’Ho, M’Nong — unrelated to the majority Viet (Kinh). They speak Austronesian or Mon-Khmer languages, have long communal house architecture (rong), gong tradition (UNESCO 2005).

Buon Ma Thuot (Dak Lak capital, 190 km north of Dalat): base for Ede village visits. Ethnographic museum. Plei Ku (Gia Lai): Jarai territory.

Respectful tour: Vietnam has integrated (assimilated) many minorities via massive Kinh migration. Avoid “exhibition” tours. Prefer rural-village homestay booked directly.

Trips around Dalat

Lang Biang Mountain (12 km north): 2,167 m peak, sacred to the K’Ho. 4x4 to summit + 1 h hike. Plateau views. 90,000 VND.

Datanla Falls: waterfalls with dry toboggan (alpine coaster) — tourist attraction, not “pristine nature” classic but fun.

Valley of Love: kitsch romantic park. Vietnamese love it, foreigners find it weird. Optional skip.

Elephant Falls: pretty rural waterfalls, 30 km from Dalat.

Canyoning (Datanla + other canyons): operators for rappel + jump + zipline. Popular. 700,000-1,200,000 VND.

Dalat food

Banh trang nuong (“Vietnamese pizza”): toasted rice paper with egg + sausage + cheese. Street, 20-30,000 VND.

Cao lau Dalat: local version of Hoi An cao lau, with highland vegetables.

Fresh produce: Dalat is Vietnam’s vegetable garden — the only region producing strawberries, artichokes, avocados, cauliflower. Markets overflow with lowland-unthinkable variety.

Dalat wine (Ladofoods): Vietnam’s only commercial wine. Quality… basic, but worth a curiosity taste.

Where to sleep

Luxury:

• Ana Mandara Villas: restored French villas. €120-250.
• Dalat Palace Heritage: 1922, the original colonial hotel. €150-300.

Mid:

• TTC Hotel Premium: modern 4*. €50-90.
• Terracotta Hotel & Resort: boutique. €60-100.

Budget:

• Dalat Family Hostel: €10-20.
• Homestay Dalat: local families, €15-30.

How to get there

• Flight from Saigon: 50 min, 600,000-1,200,000 VND. The option.
• Flight from Hanoi: 1 h 45, 1-2 million VND.
• Bus from Saigon (Phuong Trang, The Sinh): 7-8 h, 200-300,000 VND.
• Bus from Nha Trang: 3-4 h, 150,000 VND. Classic coastal route.

The complete Vietnam guide from Far Guides dedicates a section to Dalat and Highlands with plantation map, Tay Nguyen minorities route and yearly climate strategy.