Ao Dai and Vietnamese visual culture: why the country that survived three wars dresses in silk

If you’ve seen any photo of Vietnam, you’ve probably seen an ao dai — the long silk tunic over trousers, slit at the sides from the waist down. It’s the national garment and visual symbol of Vietnam as recognisable as the Japanese kimono. But the modern ao dai is surprisingly recent (1930), survived communist prohibition (1976-1986), and today is the official uniform of girls’ schools, weddings, receptions and Tet (lunar New Year).

History of the ao dai

18th century: origin as a female adaptation of the ao ngu than (5-panel tunic, masculine cut). In the Nguyen imperial court (Hue), court women wore a more fitted version.

1930 — the modern ao dai: painter Nguyen Cat Tuong (known as “Le Mur”) modernises the cut — more body-fitted, higher side slits, long sleeves. It becomes an urban symbol of the Westernised Vietnamese woman.

1976-1986 — ban: after reunification, the communist regime bans the ao dai as “bourgeois” and “decadent.” For a decade it disappears from the streets.

1986 — revival: with Doi Moi (opening up), it returns. Today it’s a required uniform at girls’ schools, airlines (Vietnam Airlines), weddings and formal events.

• 👘Modern origin 1930 (Le Mur)
• 🚫Banned 1976-1986
• 💰Made-to-measure €40-150
• 📍Best in Hoi An to buy it

Where to buy an ao dai

Hoi An is Vietnam’s bespoke textile capital. Over 400 specialist tailors, 24-48 hour turnaround, €40-150 depending on fabric and embroidery complexity.

Recommended Hoi An tailors:

• Yaly Couture: best known, high quality, €80-200.
• Bebe Tailor: ao dai specialist, €60-150.
• A Dong Silk: traditional market, €40-80.

In Hanoi: Khai Silk (Hang Gai St) and Tan My Design (also Hang Gai). Higher quality but 2x Hoi An prices.

In Saigon: Thai Tuan (Dong Khoi) for luxury silk, or Ben Thanh Market for budget versions (€15-40) — lower quality but acceptable as souvenir.

Non la: the conical hat

Non la literally means “leaf hat.” Made from dried palm leaves sewn over a bamboo frame. Unisex, functional (sun + rain), light.

Specialist regions: Hue produces non la with poems visible through light (non bai tho). Tay Ho (Hanoi village) makes the most durable ones for farm work.

Price: 30,000-150,000 VND (€1-6). As souvenir, buy in Hue or rural market, not Hanoi tourist shops (lower quality, higher price).

Lacquerware: Vietnamese son mai

Son mai (lacquer) is a millennial technique — lacquer-tree sap applied in layers (8-20) over wood, with polishing between coats. Each layer takes weeks to cure. Result: shiny, waterproof, centuries-durable surface.

Typical pieces: bowls, decorative boxes, low tables, murals with mother-of-pearl inlay.

Where to buy: Saigon (Dong Khoi street, specialist galleries) and Hue (traditional workshops). Careful: Hanoi has a lot of Chinese industrial lacquer passing as Vietnamese. Ask for certified workshops.

Vietnamese silk

Vietnam produces high-quality silk — millennial tradition in the Red and Mekong deltas. Today Bao Loc (Dalat) is the production centre.

Van Phuc Silk Village (Hanoi outskirts): weavers’ village since the 3rd century. You can see family looms, buy directly, prices 50-70% lower than central Hanoi shops.

Hoi An also has weavers — good for making a pure-silk (not acetate) ao dai.

Tet: lunar New Year

Tet Nguyen Dan (lunar New Year, January-February) is the most important holiday of the year. The whole country shuts down for 5-7 days, massive migrations to native villages.

What happens at Tet:

• Kumquat tree in every home (prosperity).
• Banh chung (glutinous rice cake): compulsory ritual food.
• Li xi (red envelopes with money) for children and elderly.
• Gala ao dai on every woman.

For the traveller: Tet is culturally fascinating but logistically awful — trains, buses and hotels full, many restaurants closed, prices x2-3. Avoid travelling during Tet unless your priority is experiencing the festival.

The complete Vietnam guide from Far Guides dedicates a section to visual culture with craft workshops by city, Tet-festival calendar and authentic silk buying strategy.