What to see in Sibiu: the old Saxon Hermannstadt in 2 days

Sibiu — Hermannstadt in German, a name many signs still use — was for five centuries the political and cultural capital of the Saxons of Transylvania. Today it’s a city of 150,000, smaller and less touristy than Brașov, but with exceptional heritage density: three connected historic squares, Brukenthal Museum with first-order Flemish work, evangelical Gothic church and a completely pedestrian centre. Sibiu was European Capital of Culture in 2007, a milestone that drove its rehabilitation. Two days are enough to walk it with time.

Day 1 — The three squares

Piața Mare (Large Square) is the historic heart. 142 metres long, flanked by Baroque and Renaissance palaces. At its centre, circular pavement and fountains. Three key buildings:

• Brukenthal Palace (1778-1785), residence of the Saxon governor of the same name, today one of Romania’s finest art museums.
• Jesuit Church (1728), Baroque, sober interior.
• Haller House (15th century), late Gothic façade.

Brukenthal Museum: entry 40 lei. Flemish and Dutch painting collection (Cranach, Van Dyck, Memling), German school, Romanian icon collection, engravings. Surprising for a provincial city, product of Baron Samuel von Brukenthal’s 18th-century collecting. 2-3 hours.

Piața Mică (Small Square): adjacent to Piața Mare, connected by the Bridge of Lies (Podul Minciunilor, 1859, Romania’s first cast iron bridge). Saxon houses here preserve the famous houses with eyes — mansard windows that seem to watch you, Sibiu’s symbol. Several cafés under arcades.

Piața Huet: third square, dominated by the Evangelical Church (Biserica Evanghelică), 14th-century Gothic with the tomb of Mihnea the Evil (son of Vlad Țepeș) in the nave. 73 m climbable tower with views.

Afternoon: walk around the fortifications. Sibiu keeps the largest wall complex in Transylvania (3 original rings, intact parts in the southern city). Stairs Passage (Pasajul Scărilor) connects upper and lower town via a photogenic medieval staircase.

Dinner: Crama Sibiul Vechi (cellar from 1350, traditional Saxon-Transylvanian food) or Max (modernised cuisine).

Day 2 — Astra Museum and excursions

Astra Museum (officially Muzeul Astra Open Air, 3 km from centre): one of Europe’s finest open-air ethnographic museums. 300 hectares, 400 traditional buildings brought from all of Romania: mills, Maramureș wooden churches, Delta fisherman’s houses, Saxon houses, mountain livestock farms. A full day to see it properly; a half day for a reasonable visit. Entry 40 lei. Take bus 13 or taxi.

If you’ve seen Astra quickly in the morning, free afternoon for:

Cisnădioara (Michelsberg): 12 km south of Sibiu. Saxon village with 12th-century fortified church on a hilltop. 15-minute uphill walk. Pure Romanesque interior. Entry 10 lei.

Cisnădie (Heltau): Saxon village with more accessible central fortified church.

Mediaș: Saxon city 55 km away, with Saint Margaret’s church and leaning tower.

The living Saxon culture

Unlike elsewhere, in Sibiu the Evangelical Saxon community remains active, though reduced to ~500 people. The Evangelical bishop has his seat here. The National Theatre programmes in Romanian and German. Lucian Blaga University maintains chairs in German. Until 1990 there were daily newspapers in German.

Klaus Iohannis, Romania’s president 2014-2024, was born in Sibiu, is Saxon and was mayor of the city before rising to national politics. His tenure (2000-2014) was responsible for the full rehabilitation of the historic centre and the 2007 European Capital of Culture candidacy. Sibiu, in a way, has been the laboratory of Romanian urban regeneration.

Where to sleep

Historic centre full of options: Hotel Ramada Sibiu (modern, 350 lei), Art Hotel (boutique, 280-400 lei), Casa Luxemburg (Piața Mică, 300-400 lei). Hostels and apartments from 140 lei.

Getting there

Sibiu Airport (SBZ): small but with flights to Munich, Vienna, London, Stuttgart. 5 km from centre. Train from Bucharest: 5-6 h, 70-100 lei. Train from Brașov: 2.5-3 h, 40-60 lei. Train from Cluj: 3-4 h, 50-80 lei. Car: from Brașov 140 km on DN1 (2.5 h); from Bucharest 280 km on partial A1 (4 h).

Curious detail

The Sibiu Stock Exchange (founded 1994) was the first futures exchange in Southeast Europe. Sibiu has pioneered several post-1990 transformations: first Romanian city with a complete pedestrian historic zone, first privatised regional airport, first PNL reformist mayor. No coincidence the EU chose it as Capital of Culture in 2007.

Far Guides’ complete Romania guide includes a detailed map of the three squares, fortification walk and routes to fortified churches and peasant fortresses from Sibiu.