Dhërmi and Himara: the two gems of the central Riviera

If the decision is not to stay in Ksamil and its August saturation — nor in Sarandë and its urban beach — the central Albanian Riviera offers two consolidated alternatives: Dhërmi and Himara. They are 25 kilometres apart on the SH8, share the Ionian frame under the Ceraunians, but offer clearly different experiences. This post separates them in detail so the traveller can choose on criteria, not by algorithmic inertia.

Dhërmi: the Albanian Ibiza

Dhërmi is the closest thing to an Albanian Ibiza or Mykonos: a long fine-pebble beach with turquoise waters, a row of beach clubs with sunbeds and music in July-August, designer dinners with candles on the sand, and an international atmosphere that doesn’t exist anywhere else on the coast. The classic beach clubs are Havana Beach Club, Folie Marine (the most famous), Sea Turtle. 2026 prices: 25-40 € for two sunbeds + umbrella in high season.

The village is split in two: the beachside part (where the hotels and beach clubs are) and the old village on the slope, white houses with slate roofs, Orthodox church, and the start of the trail to the Monastery of St. Theodore (45 min walk, exceptional views). The old village has two or three family tavernas that keep running apart from the beach scene.

When to go to Dhërmi: June and the first half of September. July-August have lots of atmosphere but at high price and density. October-May, almost everything is closed.

Himara: the balance

Himara is what many imagine when they think of an “undiscovered” Albania. It’s a small city (11,000 inhabitants) with a real fishing port, a mountainside old town with a Byzantine castle above, and several small beaches accessible on foot: Livadhi (the largest), Spile (the most central), Potami (the quietest). There are decent fish restaurants (Piceri-Restorant Scoli, Taverna Bujari), modest but real nightlife, and prices 30-40% below Dhërmi.

Himara’s old castle — Kalaja e Himarës — is in the upper neighbourhood, accessible on foot in 20 minutes via a stony path. Up there: ruins, an active Byzantine church, and views that justify the effort. Worth the last light of day.

When to go to Himara: any month between May and October. It’s the only Riviera town that keeps urban life running outside peak season.

Quick comparison

	Dhërmi	Himara
Type	Beach resort	Coastal town
Beach	1 large pebble	Several small
High-end lodging	120-200 € August	80-130 € August
Mid lodging	70-110 € July	50-80 € July
Atmosphere	International, nightlife	Local, family
Off season	Closed	Open, with life
Turquoise water	Yes, high	Yes, medium
Town	Only on the slope	Living historic centre

The ideal route: both

If you have 4-5 days on the Riviera, the optimal is sleeping 2 nights in Dhërmi + 2 in Himara. By car, the link between them is 35 minutes. The southern beach clubs are also visitable on a day trip from Himara without needing to sleep in Dhërmi. Many informed travellers do the exact opposite of the cliché: base in Himara, day in Dhërmi.

How to get there

By car: SH8 from Vlorë (2 h to Dhërmi, 2.5 h to Himara) or from Sarandë (1 h to Himara, 1.25 h to Dhërmi). The most spectacular stretch is the Llogara Pass between Vlorë and Dhërmi (1,027 m, curves, aerial views over the coast).

By furgon: Tirana → Himara/Dhërmi via Vlorë, 1,200-1,500 LEK, 5-6 h. Furgons drop you at the upper village stop; then you walk down or take a local taxi (200-300 LEK) to the beach.

Where to eat in each

Dhërmi: La Brise (modern menu, sea view), Ristorante Ex Fisherman (fish, on the sand), Taverna Luigji (traditional, old village).

Himara: Piceri-Restorant Scoli (best fish in town), Taverna Bujari (family, coastal specialties), Kala (old village, views, traditional cuisine).

Far Guides’ complete Albania guide includes a detailed central Riviera map with non-touristy minor beaches, short hiking routes and verified accommodation addresses in both towns.